Cars

Car sale ©

MORE TOP BARGAIN SITES...

SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING A CAR on EBAY

BUYING A NEW CAR IS AN EXCITING TIME HOWEVER THERE ARE A LOT OF PITFALLS AND PEOPLE HAPPY TO CON YOU OUT OF YOUR HARD EARNED CASH

AS I AM IN THE MOTOR TRADE I CAN ONLY REALLY ADVISE YOU ON BUYING CARS HOWEVER THE PRINCIPAL WOULD APPLY TO MOST ITEMS

FOLLOWING THESE FEW SIMPLE STEPS COULD SAVE YOU A LOT OF TIME AND MONEY!!

NEVER BUY A VEHICLE WITHOUT A LOGBOOK, UNLESS YOU BUYING FROM A TRADER. WALK AWAY. I HAVE HEARD SOME HORROR STORIES DON’T LET YOUR EXPERIENCE BE ONE OF THEM!!

ALWAYS ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT THE ITEM YOU ARE THINKING OF BUYING. MAKE SURE YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE BUYING BEFORE YOU START BIDDING!!

IF A VEHICLE HAS LESS THAN 3 MONTHS MOT ASK THE SELLER IF THEY WOULD BE WILLING TO HAVE THE CAR MOT 'D. TO CORRECT AN MOT FAILURE COULD BE EXPENSIVE.

IN THE EVENT OF A CAR BEING SOLD AS AN MOT FAILURE, ASK THE SELLER TO SPECIFY THE LIST OF FAILURES, THEN GIVE YOUR LOCAL GARAGE A RING AND ASK THEM TO GIVE YOU A QUOTE FOR THE WORK THAT NEEDS TO BE CARRIED OUT. THIS WILL GIVE YOU SOME IDEA OF THE COSTS INVOLVED IN GETTING THE VEHICLE THROUGH ITS MOT, IT WILL SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY IN THE LONG RUN, NO POINT IN BIDDING ON A VEHICLE THAT IS GOING TO BE TO COSTLY TO PUT BACK ON THE ROAD.

KEEP COPIES OF ALL EMAILS SENT AND RECEIVED BETWEEN YOU AND THE SELLER. THEY WILL COME IN HANDY IF A DISPUTE OR CONFLICT ARISE'S OVER THE DESCRIPTION OF THE ITEM OR ANY PROMISES THE SELLER MAKES YOU!!

IS THE SELLER A TRADER OR PRIVATE SELLER? THERE ARE SO MANY PEOPLE WHO BUY JUNK FROM CAR AUCTIONS AND THEN SIMPLY TRY TO PASS THEM OFF AS THEIR OWN VEHICLES FOR A QUICK PROFIT.

IF THE SELLER IS A TRADER PASSING THEMSELVES OFF AS A PRIVATE SELLER AND THEY ARE WILLING TO LIE ABOUT THEIR STATUS WHAT ELSE ARE THEY WILLING TO LIE ABOUT!!

QUESTIONS TO ASK?

IF THE VEHICLE IS BEING SOLD BY A PRIVATE SELLER, ASK THEM HOW LONG THEY OWNED THE VEHICLE FOR? IS THE LOGBOOK REGISTERED IN THEIR NAME AND AT THEIR HOME ADDRESS? IF IT IS A GENUINE PRIVATE SALE, THEN THE ANSWERS TO THE ABOVE QUESTIONS SHOULD BE YES!! IF THE ANSWER IS NO TO ANY OF THE ABOVE WALK AWAY

A FEW EXAMPLES OF THE EXCUSES USUALLY GIVEN BY TRADERS POSING AS PRIVATE SELLERS FOR NOT HAVING THE VEHICLE REGISTERED IN THEIR NAME .

I BOUGHT THE CAR FOR WIFE/HUSBAND OR FAMILY MEMBER AND THEY DON’T LIKE IT!!

INSURANCE TO HIGH. PEOPLE WILL USUALLY ALWAYS GET A INSURANCE QUOTE BEFORE BUYING A CAR

WIFE/HUSBAND DID NOT LIKE THE CAR OR TO BIG OR TO FAST OR THEY FAILED THEIR DRIVING TEST

I BOUGHT THE CAR AS A STOP GAP

RING ANY BELLS? IM SURE YOU HAVE HEARD AT LEAST ONE OF THE ABOVE

REMEMBER IT IS A LEGAL REQUIREMENT TO REGISTER A VEHICLE IN YOUR NAME REGARDLESS OF HOW LONG YOU INTEND ON KEEPING THE CAR

A TRADER SHOULD AND WILL DISCLOSE THE FACT THAT THEY ARE A TRADER, REMEMBER IF YOU BUY THROUGH THE TRADE THEY MAY HAVE CERTAIN OBLIGATIONS TO RECTIFY ANY PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR

ALWAYS CHECK OUT THE SELLERS FEEDBACK, THIS WILL GIVE YOU A GOOD IDEA OF HONESTY AND ALSO WHAT THEY HAVE BEEN BUYING AND SELLING. IF SOMEONE HAS GONE PRIVATE WITH THEIR FEEDBACK THEN I WOULD AIR ON THE SIDE OF CAUTION. WHY HAVE THEY HID THEIR FEEDBACK PROFILE? WHAT ARE THEY TRYING TO HIDE AND WHY?

BEFORE YOU GO TO COLLECT THE CAR, PRINT OUT THE ITEM PAGE AND TAKE IT WITH YOU. IF THE SELLER HAS MIS DESCRIBED THE ITEM IN ANYWAY, YOU WILL HAVE THE PROOF IN YOUR HANDS TO ARGUE YOUR CASE.

IF BUYING FROM A PRIVATE SELLER, ALWAYS MEET THE SELLER AT THEIR HOME ADDRESS WHICH SHOULD MATCH THE ADDRESS THE CAR IS REGISTERED AT. IF THERE IS A PROBLEM AT LEAST YOU WILL HAVE AN ADDRESS TO GO BACK TO.

WHEN YOU GO TO COLLECT THE VEHICLE AND YOU ARE UNSURE ABOUT THE VEHICLE OR THE SELLER WALK AWAY. NEVER PART WITH YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY. ONCE YOU HAVE HANDED YOUR MONEY OVER, YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET IT BACK!!

WHATS THE WORST THAT CAN HAPPEN IF YOU WALK AWAY? THE SELLER WILL GIVE YOU NEGATIVE FEEDBACK. ITS BETTER TO HAVE ONE NEGATIVE FEEDBACK THAN A CAR WHICH IS GOING TO CAUSE YOU LOTS OF PROBLEMS AND COST YOU TIME AND MONEY. BESIDES YOU CAN ALWAYS ARGUE YOUR CASE WITH EBAY AND GET THE FEEDBACK COMMENT REMOVED.

AS A WINNING BIDDER YOU HAVE AN OBLIGATION TO COMPLETE THE TRANSACTION, HOWEVER THE SELLER HAS A GREATER OBLIGATION TO BE HONEST ABOUT THEMSELVES AND THE ITEM THEY ARE SELLING.

REMEMBER THE BASIC RULES APPLY EVEN IF YOU ARE BUYING FROM A TRADER OR PRIVATE SELLER

IF SOMETHING SOUNDS TO GOOD TO BE TRUE THEN IT USUALLY IS!!!

SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING
A CAR on EBAY

Money-saving tip: Get cheaper car insurance

Ask about inclusive breakdown cover – this may be offered as a discount

With the price of motoring at an all time high, it pays to shop around for your car insurance.

We explain how to get the best deal on car insurance and save money on premiums.

There are hundreds of different companies offering car insurance at various prices.

Shop around - spending a bit of time comparing services could pay big dividends.

Play companies off against each other when shopping around – quote prices from rival companies to drive costs down.

Weigh up all the options – would you benefit from extra incentives such as cheaper breakdown cover and free legal advice?

You may be able to get cheaper breakdown cover and legal cover elsewhere, so shop around. It’s also worth asking about your renewal quote each year – insurers may add these extras on without notifying you. If you don’t need or want them, take them off and you could cut the cost of your car insurance by a considerable amount.

It’s a good idea to ask each company if higher annual mileage will increase insurance costs – don’t always assume it will.

Insurers will also offer instalment plans, which may or may not be best for you. Work out which is cheaper – paying outright by credit card or monthly payments (with interest).

Some also allow you to split the payment over two or more post-dated cheques to avoid interest charges.

The A-Z of car insurance

Other ways to save money on car insurance

• Choose third party cover if you own a low-value car

• Build up your no claims bonus – accident-free motorists can receive discounts of up to 70 per cent

• Slow down – speeding tickets add an average 13 per cent to premiums

• Avoid modifying your car

• Take a Pass Plus course if you’re a new driver

What is a protected no claims bonus?

After a few accident-free years you can pay for your no claims bonus to be protected, which means you won’t lose your bonus if you make a claim.

When protected, motorists are usually allowed up to one claim per year – or two over a three-year period. However making a claim could still cause your premiums to rise.

What is a guaranteed no claims bonus?

This allows you to protect your no claims discount for life. You’ll normally need around five claim-free years before the insurance company will guarantee your bonus for life – but they will increase your premium if you continue to claim.

What type of cover should I get?

Third party

If your car has a low value you might want to consider third party insurance - it's the cheapest cover and you'll be insured if you hit someone. But you'll have to pay for your own repairs yourself, and you won’t get a payout if you’re the victim of theft, or your car is involved in a fire.

Third party fire and theft

This cover will protect you if your car is stolen or burnt out, and includes third party insurance.

Fully comprehensive

Damage to your car will be covered whether you’re at fault or not. This is the safest bet and ideal for cars with a higher value.

Money-saving tip: Get cheaper
car insurance

How to buy a used car

Buying a used car can have potential pitfalls - but it needn't be a painful experience if you follow a simple set of rules and checks.

Do your research

It's vital to research thoroughly before buying a used car. Search our used car ads online to find out the model’s going price. This can save you paying too much – but also be aware if the price is too low.

Check Glass's guide for an accurate valuation of your car.

It's also important to give yourself a budget, and include insurance, road tax and other running costs when you're doing your sums.

If you're applying for a loan, it's crucial you shop around for the lowest rates.

Find the right car for you

Browse car reviews

Read the latest car news

Search insurance quotes

Phoning the seller

Prepare a list of questions to ask the seller, and make notes while speaking to them.

1. How long have they owned the car?

2. Has the car had a recent MOT?

3. Is it taxed?

4. What condition is the car in?

5. Why are they selling it?

6. Has the car been involved in an accident?

7. What features does the car have?

8. Is it in full working order?

You should also make sure you have a landline number for the seller – not just their mobile.

Vehicle Check

If you do one piece of research, do this. A car history check is the smartest investment you'll make when buying a car.

The check will reveal if the car has been reported stolen, has outstanding finance on it (if so, it's technically still the property of the finance house), has been written-off or scrapped and what the full spec of the vehicle should be.

You’ll be able to confirm the Vehicle’s Identification Number, so you can match it up to the numbers on the car itself (commonly found on the chassis, on the windscreen or on the floor by the driver's seat).

Find out ten reasons why you need a car data check.

The visit

Always visit the seller at their home address. Don’t arrange to meet them at a motorway service station, lay-by or any other address aside from the one where they live. Check the address is the same as the one listed on the V5C document and check the V5C hasn't been illegally amended. Read our stolen V5C certificate warning for more information.

Take the original advert with you, plus the notes you made during you phone conversation will the seller. This will enable you to check details like mileage and tax are the same as you were told during the call.

Checking the car

It’s imperative you check the car thoroughly for any faults or damages.

Follow these steps to ensure everything is checked and covered:

• Never check a car in the dark or in the rain. It will make it very difficult to spot dents, scratches, rust, and a multitude of other defects.

• If you can, take a look at the car before you ring the doorbell. This will give you a chance to look at it without being distracted by the seller.

• Always start the car with a cold engine. This will make it easier to spot starting problems or excessive smoke.

• Crouch down in front of each front wheel and look along the length of the car. Both front wheels should be directly in front of the rear – if they're not, it could mean the car has been in a crash with a slightly twisted chassis. This is known as crabbing.

• Check the gaps between the body panels are equal – if they're not, the car could have been refitted badly, or may have been in a crash.

• Take a look at the tyres. Are they in good condition? The minimum legal tread depth for tyres in the UK is 1.6mm.

• Check under the car, beneath the bonnet and the carpet for rust and signs which may suggest the car has been in a crash, such as welding marks.

• When you're inside the car, make sure the seatbelts work correctly; the steering wheel and dashboard are bolted on correctly. Also make sure the front seats move about properly and all switches work.

• Under the bonnet, look for signs of oil leaks on top of the engine, and underneath. Use the dipstick to check the amount of oil. If the level is low, the owner hasn’t been looking after the car properly.

• Look around the oil filler cap for a white mayonnaise-like substance - this is an indication of a damaged head gasket which can be very expensive to put right.

The Test drive

You should never buy a car without driving it first.

Make sure you’re fully insured to drive the seller's car, and take evidence of this with you.

Before you start the journey, turn the steering wheel from one lock to the other. There should be no screeching, banging, or knocking.

Test the handbrake. Pull it on and drive off gently. If it doesn't hold the car back, something's wrong.

Drive on as many different roads surfaces as possible. Use all the gears, and check the gear change is slick and smooth. The clutch pedal should bite between the top and middle of the pedal's travel.

Listen for odd noises from the engine, and don’t let the seller distract you by talking or turning up the radio.

The Haggle

Take a moment to remind yourself of any car faults or work you think might need doing to the car. Use this to negotiate the price with the seller.

Ask the seller what they realistically expect to get. Make a lower offer for the car, then stay silent. This gives them two options – accept your offer, or make a counter offer.

When it looks like they’re about to accept your offer, move to shake their hand and confirm the deal.

The paperwork

Ensure you see all of the following:

1. The logbook (V5C document) - make sure it isn't a stolen V5C certificate

2. The car’s service history

3. MOT details

4. The registration number and vehicle identification number

5. A valid tax disc (if the seller said tax is included)

Everything must be present and correct, or you should walk away from the deal. Make sure all the documents are original – don't accept photocopies.

Examine the logbook (V5C document) carefully. Check the seller is the recorded keeper in the V5C. If not, they're not legally entitled to sell you the car.

Lots of dealer stamps in the logbook means it's likely the car is well maintained. It's always worth calling the garage to check they did carry out the work.

The payment

Make sure you ask for a receipt when making any payment, especially if it’s cash. Get two copies signed - one for you and one for the seller. Make sure the seller's address and car details are on both.

How to buy a used car

How to get finance for your next car

Buying a car is the second biggest investment you’ll make, so choosing the right car finance deal is essential.

We show you how to get a great loan with our complete guide to car finance.

Name your price

Firstly, it’s important to figure out just how much you’re looking to borrow. Take into account:

• The price of the car

• Your earnings

• How long you’d ideally like the loan for

• Your credit history

Be realistic. You’re more likely to be offered a better finance deal if your annual wage can comfortably pay off the loan.

Get the right finance deal for you

You can compare more searches from a wide range of banks and reliable lenders. Follow these steps to begin:

1. Enter your loan amount

2. Choose the repayment period – anything from one year to 45 years

3. Tell us the purpose of the loan – in this case select ‘car’

4. Specify your residential status. Are you a homeowner or a tenant?

5. Describe your credit history by selecting from one of the three options

Buying from a dealer

Another option is to seek a finance deal straight from a car manufacturer. Some dealerships offer good deals on new cars, with warranties and low Annual Percentage Rates (APR).

Hire Purchase Agreements

Dealers can offer you a monthly repayment plan, known as a Hire Purchase Agreement (or HP).

The car is owned by the dealer or manufacturer until the last payment has been made, and you won’t be able to sell the car until you legally own it. But you’ll only borrow what you need, so won’t pay extra interest on surplus borrowing.

Personal Contract Purchases

A PCP, or Personal Contract Purchase, is where you pay a large deposit with small monthly repayments. At the end you can hand the car back to the manufacturer or pay a larger fee and purchase it outright.

For example, the PCP could allow you to pay a £3,000 deposit with 36 monthly repayments of £100. You can choose to give the car back or pay a further £3,000 to keep it yourself.

Some manufacturers will let you swap it for a new car after payment is complete.

Other finance deals

Secured Loans

You can secure other debts against your home – but be aware – your home may be repossessed if you don’t keep up repayments on a mortgage or other loans secured on it.

Compare homeowner loans to see how much you could save.

Refused credit loans

Even if you’ve been refused credit in the past you may still be legible for a car loan. Visit our refused credit enquiry page and you’ll receive a decision within an hour.

Finance FAQs

Q: How can I see my credit report?

A: Contact one of the major credit agencies who compile them – these include Equifax, Experian, Equilend and Call Credit. You should get one copy for free, but running credit checks can damage your credit rating further.

Q: Where can I find more information about loans?

A: Visit our A-Z of car loans page.

Q: What happens if I’m made redundant or ill and I can’t work?

Payment Protection Insurance (PPI) is a service which protects your debts should you have a sudden loss of income, due to illness or disability.

Most policies differ so read the terms and conditions carefully. Ask what percentage your insurer is willing to pay and how long for.

Q: I’m worried there may be some hidden charges in my loan – what can I do to check?

A: Visit our hidden charges advice page.

Remember the longer the loan period is, the more you’ll have to pay. Check the loan’s APR and make sure your monthly repayments are correct.

How to get finance for your
next car

Preparing to Buy a Car - Phoning the Seller

As private sellers are under no obligation to reveal a car's history, or offer proof of any checks, the onus is very much on the buyer to determine a car's past.The first stage of this process is conducted over the phone - and if you get it right, it can save a lot of hassle and wasted time.

Questions you must ask:

How long have they owned the car? Have they owned it from new? If not, how many previous owners are there? If the number plate is visible from the advert's image, you can find out the vehicle identity with a free Auto Trader Vehicle Check.

Why are they selling it?

What is the mileage? What features does the car have? In their opinion, what sort of condition is it in?

Is there an outstanding finance or hire purchase agreement?

Does it have any car tax or MOT? If so, how much?

Are there any service records, bills, old MOT's? (Use the latter to check mileage).

Has it been involved in any accident damage, and if so, which parts were damaged? Where was it repaired? Are the repairs guaranteed?

Have they replaced anything on it recently? Has it been modified in any way?

Price should be negotiable - are they open to reasonable and fair offers? Compare similar car model prices by reading our setting the price page.

Things you should never do:

Arranging to meet in a mutual location, such as a pub car park. Why doesn't the seller want to reveal their address? Are they making sure you have no comeback?

Not noticing mobile numbers; they're commonplace nowadays, but why should someone not want to back it up with a land-line number?

Miss a trader or canvasser in disguise. The classic opener on the telephone is to ask if "the car" is still for sale - a "which one?" response is a dead give-away. Traders sometimes sell dodgy motors 'in disguise', thus avoid legal obligations to repair problems.

Preparing to Buy a Car -
Phoning the Seller

Car Buyers' Legal Rights

Buying a used car can be a risky experience, so it’s best to be fully aware of your rights should something go wrong.

If you buy a vehicle from a dealer, you’re covered by the Sale of Goods Act 1979. This means it must be:

• Of satisfactory quality, bearing in mind its age, what it cost and how it was described to you. It should be free from serious defects, other than those you were made aware of

• As described. If the dealer says it's a 2-litre, and it's actually a 1.6-litre, you can reject the car and seek a refund or replacement

• Fit for any reasonable purpose. The car should do all that you reasonably expect of it, including any specifics you state to the dealer. If you need a car for towing and the dealer says a 1-litre supermini will be fine, you can reject the car if it struggles

However, if you pay for the car to be inspected, the dealer is not responsible for any faults the inspection should have found and you should always get a statement on the car's condition from the dealer.

If your car is faulty, you have six months from the date of purchase in which you can reject it. You can demand repair or a replacement, unless it would cause 'disproportionate' or 'significant inconvenience' to the seller.

Examples of this would be if a repair would be as effective as a replacement, or if a price reduction would be more appropriate for minor defects.

Dealers must now prove the vehicle was of satisfactory quality when it was sold. This means you no longer need to seek an independent car inspection.

However, if you believe your car is faulty, you must stop using the car immediately, and contact the dealer directly. You need to follow this up in writing, providing evidence of the problems.

If you've bought the vehicle from a franchised car dealer, you can speak to the manufacturer direct. They don't want to get a bad name because a dealer hasn't provided the expected level of service.

What about a private sale?

You have far less legal comeback when buying a car privately. The only obligation for sellers is to describe the car truthfully - but even if they don't, getting compensation from them can be difficult, time-consuming and costly.

However, you can still expect a car to be:

• Capable of passing an MOT, unless the seller specifies it isn't

• Owned by the person who is selling it - because if you later find out it's been stolen, you have no legal right to keep it

How to buy a New Car

Buying a new car is easy, but it could be the second biggest investment you ever make, so it pays to do everything you can to get the best possible deal.

We bring you ten essential steps to buying a new car.

1. Why buy a new car?

You have the choice of any new car you want with the exact specification you want.

There's the opportunity to get some great offers – including finance deals and free accessories and warranty. You’ll also get a manufacturer-backed warranty to give you peace of mind if something goes wrong.

There’s a huge range of new car models to choose from – all you have to do is find the best deal for you.

2. What car should you buy?

Consider your car requirements. Ask yourself:

1. What will you use it for? Motorway commuting, city driving or rural escapades?

2. How long do you expect to own it?

3. Are you looking for something reliable, spacious, sporty, or a mixture of all three?

4. How much CO2 does it emit – and how much will it cost to tax?

5. How many miles to the gallon (mpg) can it cover?

6. What are the specifications – top speed, size and weight?

7. What type of fuel does it run on – petrol, diesel, bioethanol or electricity? Or do you want the flexibility of a hybrid?

8. How much are you willing to spend?

3. Find out about a car model

There are a number of steps you can take to research a specific car model:

• Browse car reviews

• Read the latest car news

• Search Car Insurance Centre

4. Phone the dealer

Always confirm the details in the advert are correct – this could save you a wasted trip. Make sure you ask:

1. Is the delivery price included?

2. How soon can the car be delivered?

3. Is road tax included?

4. Are registration fees included?

5. Are there any other deals currently available on the car? For example 0 per cent APR or free insurance for a year

Ask about any pre-reg cars which may be available – you could get a new car for less.

What are pre-reg cars?

Pre-reg cars, or pre-registration vehicles, are cars which have the dealer listed as their first owner on the V5C registration document.

They are still completely new and are usually offered at a discount. But buying a pre-reg car may affect the price you’ll get when selling, as you won’t be able to say it’s a one-owner car.

5. Visit the showroom

If you're buying from a franchised dealer (who sells cars on behalf of a manufacturer), visit the showroom and view the car.

You may not be able to view a car with the exact specifications you want – specific models will have to be ordered in by the dealer. You may also need to wait for them to locate the right car for you.

Find out more essential car checks.

6. Take a test drive

Always test a car before buying – it’ll give you a chance to spot any nagging issues.

Bear in mind the dealer may not have the exact model you want in stock. Test drive a similar model – for example a Ford Fiesta Zetec if a Zetec S isn’t available.

Better still, ask the dealer to locate a model with the exact engine and gearbox you want – however you may need to wait.

Make sure you're fully insured to drive the car, and take proof of this with you. Most dealers will let you drive with trade number plates, which should provide you with cover – but check this is the case.

• Drive on as many road surfaces as possible

• Avoid any distractions from the dealer – they may strike up unnecessary conversation or turn up the radio

• Read our essential test drive guide for more advice

7. The haggle

There's still plenty of room for negotiation on the price of a new car, and it's always worth pushing for.

Why not try and get some extras thrown in?

• Metallic paint

• Protective coating for the paintwork and upholstery

• A good finance deal which can offset the car’s cost (dealers often work on commission)

• A full tank of fuel

• Floor mats and mud flaps

Dealers find it easier to sell cars in March and September – when new registration plate are released. So watch out for some great deals in February and August, or they may be eager to sell their ex-demonstrator stock. These are cars which have been used for test drives and are usually only a few months old.

You might be able to get a better deal towards the end of these months when sales teams are chasing their targets.

Part exchange

Some dealers will allow you to part exchange your old car towards the cost of a new one. Bear in mind trade prices differ greatly from private car sales – so don’t be disheartened if you’re offered less than you thought.

Some dealers will add a little to their prices to offer a better part exchange value, while others will have a lower screen price and offer lower part exchange prices. Always pay attention to the cost to change cars.

8. Making payment

If you're applying for a loan, shop around for the lowest rates.

When seeking finance direct from a dealer, make sure you can pay off the monthly repayments. Find out how much you’ll pay back altogether – if it’s more than one and a half times the cost of the car, you may be better off looking for finance elsewhere.

The more deposit you pay, the lower your monthly repayments will be.

Buying a car online

Sometimes you can get a better deal buying a car online.

Many dealers sell cars directly from their web sites, and some also include better finance deals online. However not all cars are cheaper to buy online.

For more information read our money-saving tip on how to buy a car online.

9. The paperwork

After making payment, the dealer will usually take you outside and go through the car’s dials and workings, before handing you the paperwork. Always check you get the correct documents for your vehicle:

• V5C registration document (or ‘logbook’)

• Vehicle handbook

• Warranty documentation

• Other manuals and codes for the radio and keys, if applicable

Make sure the registration on the vehicle tallies with the one in the V5C registration document (or ‘logbook’), as well as the vehicle identification number.

It’s also a good idea to keep the dealer’s contact details handy for future reference.

10. What to do if something goes wrong

Look out for dealers’ Office of Fair Trading’s OFT Approved scheme, BSI British Standards Kitemark or other trade association certificates before buying, which signify a high level of quality.

If anything goes wrong with the deal – for example the car doesn’t turn up or it’s not the correct model you asked for, make sure you protest at the earliest opportunity.

You can contact a number of bodies who offer help and advice on these issues:

• Office of Fair Trading

• Retail Motor Industry Federation

How to buy a New Car

How to Check a Car before Buying

A few quick car checks could help you identify if something's amiss - and prevent a potentially dodgy deal.

We explain how to make sure a car is in full working order before buying.

The golden rule is - never view a car in the dark or in the rain, as weather can hide a multitude of sins. You'll never spot scratches, dents or rust in the rain, and a lack of light means many other potential problems will go unnoticed.

When you arrive at your viewing, take a look around the car before you ring the doorbell. This will give you a chance to look at it without being distracted by the seller.

Outside

• Firstly, take a walk around the car and take it all in. Unless you've been told otherwise, the car should be in a driveable state.

• You should always start the car with a cold engine, as this is when it's easiest to spot starting problems or excessive smoke. Place a hand on the bonnet - if it's warm, it's been run recently, so let it cool for a few hours. If need be, come back later.

• Let the seller show you the car, but don't let them distract you from carrying out your own checks.

• The wheels should sit neatly in the wheel arches, equally on both sides.

• Check the gaps between the panels are equal. Run your finger along each to feel if the gap is bigger at one end than the other. Uneven panel gaps occur if a car has been in a crash, or if panels have been refitted badly.

• Look carefully at each panel for ripples or overspray – where excess paint has flecked onto other trim, such as window seals or bumpers.

• Look closely at each tyre – including the spare. Watch for uneven wear, which could mean suspension damage, nicks and gouges. Tyres are expensive, so if they need replacing, use this as a bargaining tool.

• The minimum tread depth is 1.6mm for the whole way around the tyre. Use a tread depth gauge to see how much is left – the more, the better.

• Check under the car, particularly at the front and back, under the bonnet and under the carpet in the boot for signs of crash damage. Panels should be flat, and free from signs of welding or patching up – if they're not, it's probably had a shunt.

• Most shunts are minor, low-speed crashes, but you should take extra steps to be sure there aren't any more serious problems.

• Obviously rust is a bad sign, so keep your eye out all the time, especially around the wheel arches where moisture, grime and winter road salt can increase the speed of deterioration.

Inside

There are plenty of things to check inside, as well, most of which can be a good indication of mileage and the amount of care and attention it's had lavished on it.

• Look around the cabin – a 50,000 mile car shouldn't have a worn or sagging seat or a steering wheel, gear knob or pedal covers which have been worn by lots of use.

• Make sure all the seatbelts work – they could indicate a previous crash or general neglect. They're a legal requirement too – if the car is being sold with a new MOT certificate, alarm bells should be ringing as these should have been checked.

• Look closely at the dashboard binnacle (the bit which houses the speedometer and other dials). If the car has an older, mechanical-style milometer which turns as you drive, make sure all the barrels are aligned correctly – turning these back is the oldest trick in the book. If there are fingerprints in there, ask why – there could be an honest explanation.

• This is harder to check on more modern models which have electronic milometers – the miles can be turned back simply by connecting a laptop and entering a new mileage.

• Either way, make sure the mileage tallies with old MOT certificates and service history.

• Make sure all the dashboard and steering column panels are bolted on correctly – they could point to a clocked car, or one which has been stolen, particularly if there are glass fragments on the floor.

• Don’t be too quick to reject a car – it can be tricky to bolt a dash back together after changing a blown bulb in the instrument panel.

• Make sure all the switches work – including the heater or air-con - and check the front seats move about properly.

• Locate the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You'll find this riveted in the engine bay. There are few reasons why this should have been removed, so be suspicious if there are signs of tampering, you could be looking at a clone – a stolen car given the identity of a write-off. Visit our safety and security centre for more information.

• The VIN number will also be stamped in the floor beside the driver or passenger seat. A clone will have another number welded on, and are usually quite easy to swap.

• Modern cars also have the VIN recorded at the base of the windscreen.

• Check all the numbers match the logbook and your Car History Check documents – if they don't, walk away.

Under the bonnet

Next check under the bonnet – any problems you miss here could cost you a packet, so be thorough. Read our basic car checks page more for details on how to do this.

• Check for signs of oil leaks around the top of the engine, but don’t forget to check underneath as this will be where it's most obvious. Road grime can stick to oil, making it even more noticeable.

• Remove the dipstick, wipe it with a cloth and replace for a couple of seconds. Pull it out again and look at the amount of oil – it should be near the top; if not, the owner hasn’t been looking after it.

• The oil should be a golden colour – sludgy black oil is a sign the engine could be damaged.

• Look around the oil filler cap for a white mayonnaise-like substance - this is an indication of a damaged head gasket which can be very expensive to put right.

How to Check a Car before
Buying

Before the haggle

• Check the vehicle

• Take it for a test drive

• Get a car history check

• Check the logbook (V5C document), service history, car tax disc and MOT

• Check the registration number and vehicle identification number are correct

Know your limits

Have three prices in mind before meeting the seller:

1. The price you’d love to get away with paying

2. A good, fair deal

3. The most you’re willing to pay – never go over this

If the seller is particularly awkward or difficult, remember this:

1. Try not to lose your cool.

2. Reassure them. Say: “I’m not going to mess you about. I can pay by cheque or cash right away.”

3. Don't let the seller make you feel guilty for haggling - you could end up paying more than you need to.

Top Tips

“Just be cheeky and push a little bit more!” He told us his essential tips to grabbing an automotive bargain:

1. Do your homework

Research every subject matter related to the car in trade magazines and on the Internet. Find out what you’d be happy with. If you’re not confident, bring a friend.

2. Be courteous, not confrontational

Always be polite and courteous to the seller. You might have to put up with a grumpy person to a certain extent, but if they’re consistently rude, walk away.

3. Follow your instincts

If something feels wrong, chances are there is. If the seller’s not right, the car won’t be.

4. Be jovial when haggling

Always put in an offer lower than what you’re happy to pay. Shock the seller but don’t become an enemy. Think of it as a game! Don’t feel embarrassed you might insult them – they won’t tell you to go away, they’ll make you an offer instead.

5. Turn the tables

Make a counter-offer if you're offered a weak price. For example: “Well, if you can knock the price down to £3,000, then maybe we’ll have a deal.”

6. Push the deal

“That’s the best price I can do.”

When you hear this, ignore it and change the subject. Ask them for their best price again. If it’s not lower, tell them you’re not sure and might look elsewhere first.

Before you leave, ask them to give you a better price. Say you can pay right away and take the car away today. By the third objection, you’ll usually seal the deal.

DO:

• Be confident. Use strong questions like: “how much are you going to knock off for me then?” and appear to know what you’re talking about

• Be persistent

• Stay relaxed

• Be friendly

• Act straightforward in a businesslike manner

• Stay in control. You can do this by mentally picturing you own their car.

DON’T:

• Get carried away or emotional

• Fall out with the seller

• Offer the full asking price

• Complain about a low price

• Lose your cool

• Lose control by using weak statements like “could you knock off more?”

1. Get along with the seller

It sounds simple, but people don’t like selling cars to people they don’t get along with. Many buyers and sellers can be hard nosed and fall out with each other. If you can get the seller to like you, you’re more likely to do a better deal.

2. Set up the haggle

Negotiation starts on the initial phone call. Ask the seller if they’re open for sensible offers. If they say no, tell them you want to look at the car anyway. This sets them up to expect a haggle when you meet.

3. Check for problems

When checking the car or taking it for a test drive, make a mental note of any faults, defects or other problems, but don’t mention them to the seller. Run your hands over the tyres and check the windows are working for example.

Pointing out the vehicle’s disadvantages puts you in more control of the situation.

4. Summarise

Give a round up of the vehicle to the seller – this re-caps your position and helps you decide how much to offer. Give both criticism and compliments about the car.

This lets them know you’re interested but puts some doubt in their mind.

5. The haggle

Never make an offer first, but ask the seller how much they realistically expect to get for the car. When they reply, ask again, pointing out one of the car’s faults. As soon as they give you a lower price, look them in the eye, make an offer and shut up.

It’s hard to do but you must keep quiet at this point. The seller now has two choices:

• They’ll accept your offer, which means you’ve offered too much

• Or they’ll make another offer

If their counter-offer is too high, stand your ground and haggle further.

6. Sealing the deal

When it looks as if they’re thinking about accepting your offer, offer them your hand. It’s difficult for the seller to refuse a handshake, since it’s a natural instinct to shake someone’s hand back.

7. Remember to have fun

Buying a used car should be fun. You never lose money on a car you didn't buy and can always walk away. Use the skills I’ve taught and have a bit of fun!

Know the seller

Everyone is different, so the amount you can save will depend on how lenient the seller is. More than 25 per cent of motorists admit they would rip off the buyer of their used car.

This means buyers must look out for sellers who hide scratches, exaggerate the car’s performance and don’t mention previous accidents the car may have been involved in. It pays to take note of this, so bring along someone more experienced with you and use any negative or hidden details about the car to haggle effectively. But don’t over-criticise the seller or their car, or they will look to sell elsewhere.

“Nice people generally sell nice cars.”

Before the haggle

QUICK SALE NEEDED – THE DEFINITIVE CAR SELLING GUIDE

Why is it that some cars sell well on Ebay and others sell badly

It’s true that luck plays it’s part when you’re selling on Ebay, get two or more right people at the same time and you could be onto a winner. But, there are plenty of techniques you can adopt to improve your chances and realise more money for your car.

I’ve sold plenty of cars on Ebay and have improved my technique over the last few years to the point where I’m confident enough of achieving a good price that I can let my auctions run with no reserve, while I'm sure there's room for improvement, it works well for me.

Don’t let your auction run for too long - 10 days is simply too long for the internet generation, people just get bored and stop watching. On the other hand, 1 or 3 days might well be too short and might not get seen by enough people. I recommend 5 days if you’re in a rush and 7 days.

No reserve - It’s a risk but often one worth taking. It really gets people going, combine this with a low start price and an auction that’s not too long and you’ll interest more people.

Good points before bad points - I always start with a brief description, then the good points, including recent work, history, general condition etc. Bad points next and then end on a positive description. If it’s a good example then say so, if it’s a bad example then say so but also point out it’s cheap and with no reserve.

Always be honest - Don’t describe something as mint for the year, it’s either ‘mint’ or it’s not, regardless of it’s age. If there are too many marks to list individually then you could generalise, for example, ‘There are a few small scuffs and spots of corrosion as you would expect from a car of this age’. Good photo's will show a cars condition better and be more trusted than a seller’s opinion.

Low starting price - it will spike peoples interest, combined with no reserve it makes your car seem accessible and affordable. The more bids you encourage the more popular your car will look and the more people will be inclined to bid.

Clean your car – It sounds so obvious but so many people don’t seem to bother. You may not normally clean your car but just this once, make a proper job. Get the degreaser and an old toothbrush out, do your wheels and engine bay and all those little bits you normally leave. It gives the car a much better overall feel and first impressions mean everything on Ebay.

Standard is best – It’s an irony that people want to buy standard cars and then stick aftermarket tat on them:

clear indicators – bad

21 inch spinners – bad

Loud exhaust – bad

The fact is you will get more for a standard car and selling the parts separately than selling it all as one full stop. Only one person will lose out. There aren’t any exceptions to the rule, even if you’ve got expensive alloys fitted to your car, they’re still worth more sold separately, and the car will be more desireable with standard alloys. Rule of thumb, divide and conquer.

Good pictures and plenty of them - don’t use other peoples or manufacturers photos, it makes it look like you don't own the car. Don’t use your phone no matter how good it is, a proper digital camera with a decent lens is the proper way to go. Set the resolution to the highest setting. Ebay will reduce the resolution when you upload them but you’re better starting off too good. You’ve got 12 free photo’s so use them all, walk round the car and make sure you cover everything. A few long shots, close ups and shots of any damage you’ve mentioned. It’s a good idea to shoot MOT’s, service history and any extra’s that go with the car, while it won’t show detail, it will give an idea of how much history the car has and leave a good impression. If you're up to the task you can host your photo's elsewhere and link them in the advert, this will allow you to achieve much better quality.

Spelling mistakes – we are not, for the moment anyway, part of America, so for the record, ‘tyre’ is not spelt ‘tire’. When you buy something you’ve ‘bought’ it not ‘brought’ it. Don’t forget we invented the language so have some pride and use the spell checker built into Ebay’s text editor.

Plan to end your auction at the right time – Schedule your auction to start so it ends when the sort of people you’re selling to are online. The last hour, nay the last 10 minutes are the most important. Peak Internet usage is lunch times and evening, especially at the weekends. Personally I always end mine around 9.00 PM on Sunday, the kids are in bed, people have the time to be online and it’s between programmes.

Clear layout – avoid one big sentence. Split up the good and bad points using bullet points. Don’t use a massive red font for example, it just gets annoying trying to read it. Use paragraphs, that’s why they exist. Don’t waffle or tell prospective buyers why they want to buy it, patronising people is best left to car dealers.

Don’t make your advert too long - In any advert, the pictures are the gold, and people want to get to them ASAP. Too much text and they’ll get bored before they get to them.

Don’t get greedy – If you’re car is desirable or rare or cheap it will make good money, perhaps even more than you could otherwise get. If you’re selling a Ford Mondeo then it needs to stand out for its condition and value, because there’s a ton of them.

Know your target audience - selling a classic 1970’s Mercedes is a totally different experience from selling a Citroen Saxo VTR and you should word your advert accordingly.

ZERO or LOW rated bidders - Request that they contact you with a landline number before bidding. Fraudulent bidders are getting more and more prevalent which is a real pain for the rest of us. You can set your auction to allow 'Pre-approved' bidders only but this will definitely stop genuine people bidding too and should only be used for extremely rare and/or expensive cars. If you do get bad bids, cancel them as soon as possible and then block the bidders. The links to these useful pages can be found in the Help section.

Reply to your questions openly - Post your questions at the bottom as it will save you replying to everyone individually, it also makes you look honest and open and people are more likely to want to buy from you.

Reserve’s, whether to disclose or not - on one hand you inadvertently set the top price for your car if you do disclose, on the other hand, if it's low enough it may encourage more bidding. I usually disclose my reserve, sometimes it works out and I get substantially more and sometimes I don't even reach it. Definitely not an exact science.

BIN price, how it will affect your price - If you use a ‘Buy It Now’ price, people automatically limit what they expect to pay. If it’s too high it will stop people bidding, If it’s too low it will automatically limit what people will bid.

Offer delivery - even if it’s through a third party, it's one more reason to buy from you rather than someone else. A simple £? per mile price will allow people to work it our for them selves and you'll have to answer fewer questions.

Don’t just cut and paste from manufacturers web sites – People will spot it! They’ll probably have read the magazine articles and because they're a reasonably savvy lot, they don't trust manufacturers information. It also makes you look lazy and unimaginative.

Title - Don’t just put ‘Ford car’, we know it’s a ‘Ford car’, it’s in the ‘Ford car’ section. Put (in capitals) ‘1996 FORD MONDEO 1.8 GLX – IMMACULATE CONDITION’

Ebay options:

Gallery – good (you've got to use the gallery option and make sure you use your best photo first)

Featured – good (it seems like a lot but you'll almost certainly get it back and more besides)

Home page featured – bad (only use it if you're selling a rare car)

Subtitle – good, as long as you’ve got something to say (don't just repeat yourself)

Finally, if you care about your advert you more than likely care about your car, and visa versa. This comes across to buyers.